The Seoul and the Suffering
Posted by Afrojew2 | | Posted On Sunday, October 4, 2009 at 11:03 PM
Korea. So far? A place of extremes. A place of intense energy and incredible exhaustion. A place of tranquil silence and deafening volume. A place of instant camaraderie and inescapable isolation. A place of deep history and rabid modernization. A place of delight and a place of misery. My first 10 days here were spectacular. My last 6 brought me as low as I hope to sink. Let’s start with the spectacular, after all, I am an optimist.
Actually the spectacular begins horribly. Upon arriving here I met up with my wonderful friend and trustworthy travel buddy Jon in Anyang City. He immediately took me out for chicken and beer and made sure to tell me he was going to order something not spicy because Korean food is some of if not the spiciest food in all of Asia. Without knowing it we got was the spiciest thing on the menu and I was left searching for my stomach by the light of the candle. The next day I went to Seoul for the first of what would be five trips to the city in 10 days. We went to the Asian Song Festival at the World Cup Stadium and saw several pop bands from across Asia, though Koreans were the dominant performers. An authentic cultural experience.
The following day we went for a hike and found this lovely vista. The city in the foreground: Anyang. The city in the distance: Seoul. After the hike we headed to the city again for a walk along the Han River.
Jon had to work the next day so I took it upon myself to do some touristy things. I went back to Seoul and toured Deoksugung Palace, one of the five imperial palaces scattered across the dazzling city. I was incredibly surprised when I got offered a post as Imperial Guard #42. They even had my size uniform. (The uniform and the camera add 30lbs)
The palace was small, gorgeous, and incredibly colorful. It left me with the feeling that I had to see the other four. It took plenty of restraint not to go to them immediately. But hey, I’ve got a long time for that yet.
The National Museum of Korea was next on the chopping block. A huge, incredibly modern casing for some very old and fragile treasures. I had no idea it held my favorite piece of artwork. Of course, I had no idea what that was until I saw it.
I moved into my apartment and into my own Korean life the next day. I have a lot to say about my living situation, school, job, and friends, and you will hear it I promise, but today is for what I’ve done. Mostly I can’t talk about these things because I have no pictures of any of them yet. In due course, of course.
After taking a day or two to get settled into life in Suwon I went to find the cities main attraction: Hwaseong Fortress. Built in 1789, almost the entire structure still stands. It is a fortified wall with several massive gates enclosing the original town of Suwon. It was built by King Joengjo of the Joseon Dynasty as he designed to move the capital from Seoul to my city. I think I am befitting of its grandeur. I took the time to walk the entire circumference of the work of art along the original stone walls. It was the first of many walks to come. I plan to get to know this military marvel intimately.
Later that night I went out with a new friend, a fellow English teacher named Josh, and some of his friends. We got a little trashed, ate some delicious Galbi, talked about the Red Light district in Suwon, and played darts and pool.
Before coming here I had never eaten raw fish. That all changed the next night when I went out again with Josh and a friend from work. They took me to their favorite raw fish joint. The meal was pretty good and the drinks were better. We stumbled upon two other whiteys while trolling for a good bar and proceeded to have a philosophical discussion with them reminiscent of those I used to have with my roommate at JMU. I felt bad for our Korean friend who could not keep up with our English. Enlightenment aside, raw tuna, raw flounder, raw mussels, and raw clams equals sick Seth. Not food poisoning, just my own inability to digest the foreign food and bacteria. So I’ve been incapacitated, bedridden, and suffering for the past 6 days. Just today I reached the point where I can eat real food again. Only fatigue and a cough remain. But there’s nothing like a good physical illness in a foreign country to bring all the homesick feelings to the surface. And once they’re there, they’re not easy to get rid of. I’m working through it though, one episode of the West Wing at a time.
I start teaching tomorrow. I was nervous as hell before this ordeal, but now it just doesn’t seem so bad. I’m even looking forward to it because it will give me an excuse to get out of this apartment and out of my own head.
So there you have it. My Korea. It’s extremes. My extremes. As much as this might be my adventure, I’m starting to realize I’m really just along for the ride.
Actually the spectacular begins horribly. Upon arriving here I met up with my wonderful friend and trustworthy travel buddy Jon in Anyang City. He immediately took me out for chicken and beer and made sure to tell me he was going to order something not spicy because Korean food is some of if not the spiciest food in all of Asia. Without knowing it we got was the spiciest thing on the menu and I was left searching for my stomach by the light of the candle. The next day I went to Seoul for the first of what would be five trips to the city in 10 days. We went to the Asian Song Festival at the World Cup Stadium and saw several pop bands from across Asia, though Koreans were the dominant performers. An authentic cultural experience.
The following day we went for a hike and found this lovely vista. The city in the foreground: Anyang. The city in the distance: Seoul. After the hike we headed to the city again for a walk along the Han River.
Jon had to work the next day so I took it upon myself to do some touristy things. I went back to Seoul and toured Deoksugung Palace, one of the five imperial palaces scattered across the dazzling city. I was incredibly surprised when I got offered a post as Imperial Guard #42. They even had my size uniform. (The uniform and the camera add 30lbs)
The palace was small, gorgeous, and incredibly colorful. It left me with the feeling that I had to see the other four. It took plenty of restraint not to go to them immediately. But hey, I’ve got a long time for that yet.
The National Museum of Korea was next on the chopping block. A huge, incredibly modern casing for some very old and fragile treasures. I had no idea it held my favorite piece of artwork. Of course, I had no idea what that was until I saw it.
I moved into my apartment and into my own Korean life the next day. I have a lot to say about my living situation, school, job, and friends, and you will hear it I promise, but today is for what I’ve done. Mostly I can’t talk about these things because I have no pictures of any of them yet. In due course, of course.
After taking a day or two to get settled into life in Suwon I went to find the cities main attraction: Hwaseong Fortress. Built in 1789, almost the entire structure still stands. It is a fortified wall with several massive gates enclosing the original town of Suwon. It was built by King Joengjo of the Joseon Dynasty as he designed to move the capital from Seoul to my city. I think I am befitting of its grandeur. I took the time to walk the entire circumference of the work of art along the original stone walls. It was the first of many walks to come. I plan to get to know this military marvel intimately.
Later that night I went out with a new friend, a fellow English teacher named Josh, and some of his friends. We got a little trashed, ate some delicious Galbi, talked about the Red Light district in Suwon, and played darts and pool.
Before coming here I had never eaten raw fish. That all changed the next night when I went out again with Josh and a friend from work. They took me to their favorite raw fish joint. The meal was pretty good and the drinks were better. We stumbled upon two other whiteys while trolling for a good bar and proceeded to have a philosophical discussion with them reminiscent of those I used to have with my roommate at JMU. I felt bad for our Korean friend who could not keep up with our English. Enlightenment aside, raw tuna, raw flounder, raw mussels, and raw clams equals sick Seth. Not food poisoning, just my own inability to digest the foreign food and bacteria. So I’ve been incapacitated, bedridden, and suffering for the past 6 days. Just today I reached the point where I can eat real food again. Only fatigue and a cough remain. But there’s nothing like a good physical illness in a foreign country to bring all the homesick feelings to the surface. And once they’re there, they’re not easy to get rid of. I’m working through it though, one episode of the West Wing at a time.
I start teaching tomorrow. I was nervous as hell before this ordeal, but now it just doesn’t seem so bad. I’m even looking forward to it because it will give me an excuse to get out of this apartment and out of my own head.
So there you have it. My Korea. It’s extremes. My extremes. As much as this might be my adventure, I’m starting to realize I’m really just along for the ride.
Love the title - what does Seoul mean in Korean, do you know? I'm trying out titles for your travelogue, to be published when you return. "Suffering in Seoul" "Seoul suffering" "down and out and soulful in Seoul" "Seoul-ful with Seth". the Hebrew word for soul, or one of the aspects of the soul, is neshama, and I love that word. I heard that your yiddishe mama sent you chicken soup - and mac and cheese to heal your homesick blues. I admire you, Seth! That optimistic side of yours will serve you well - nurture it. love, debbie